Valentines in Vietnam!

I decided to officially call off this years Valentines Day since I was without my lovely friends or family to do partner yoga, paraglide, dance on tables or get drunk with (all some of my few favorite Valentines memories of recent years).  But the flower ladies lining the streets and HBOs lineup of Valentines Day, Made of Honor, Letters to Juliet and Twilight made it hard to forget. Vi wasn't feeling well so we didn't meet up for dinner so I walked downtown to get my favorite meal: mango chicken! I ended up sharing a table with a very interesting old French man whose son married a Cambodian girl and lives there so he has spent almost a year total of the last three years in SE Asia. He teaches engineering to many Vietnamese students too. It was a fabulous dinner conversation and was an excellent evening. The heart picture above is an origami piece that Vi made out of the 500 dong bill (which is worth like 5 cents or something tiny). Hope everyone enjoyed a day with loved ones of all types! And a special happy anniversary to my parents whose 37 years of marriage is inspiring. I can't even stay in the same country for 37 days lol ;)

Bike to Mui Ne!

I broke my Sunday hike tradition to bike to the coast! I joined up with three fun British physical therapists for the early morning departure with Groovy Gecko tours. We drove about an hour and a half to our starting point (which was slowed down since we got stuck behind a funeral procession on the way to the graveyard which was interesting to quite interesting to see!). Then we set up our bikes and we were off! Since. We are starting high and descending over 900 meters, most of the biking was an exercise in brake grip strength versus leg muscles but it was an exhilarating ride! We also passed a minority village. Our bike guide explained that most minority's aren't recognized by the Vietnamese government and there are very rare instances where someone marries outside of the village. As if on cue, we passed a traditional wedding and the bride's white gown looked beautiful but slightly out of place in the dusty surroundings. The hilly jungle terrain was beautiful as we raced down the narrow road until we finally reached the flat roads leading towards the coast where we stopped for lunch. They served up some yummy sandwiches, fresh fruit and veggies and sugar cane juice! The juice basically consisted of the shop owner running long sugar cane sticks through a grinder that squeezes out the juice. A perfect refresher to combat the rising heat and humidity since we were out of the cool comfort of Dalat's higher altitudes. After lunch we biked an easy but warm 15 km more past a lot of small villages where the kids rushed to the street to say an English 'hello'. It felt like a parade and we were the main attraction. After a little drive, we reached Mui Ne which is a beautiful Oceanside resort town. I almost wished I was staying with the Brit's as we left them at a tropical resort (which was costing the three of them $26 a night for their room! Cheap!) I climbed back in the van with our driver and bike guide and casually asked them when we'd be home thinking it'd be about an hours drive along a shorter route like the tour booked told me. I was shocked to discover it was a 4 hr drive along the same route we came! So I kinda got 'misled' but enjoyed the stop for fresh seafood and the sunset over the hills as we rose back up to Dalat. It was a long but fun day!

Meet Vi

Vi, as I've mentioned, is my Vietnamese sidekick/translator who is from Ho Chi Mihn City but comes to Dalat with volunteers to help translate in the clinic as well as orient us to the city. Sometimes people come in groups and sometimes solo. I'm the only one here now and so it's easier on her. She knows most medical terms in English which is helpful. She's 22 and went to University in HcMc and she hopes to work as a tour guide or at a fancy hotel in the future. It's been nice to hear all about Vietnamese customs. For example, at lunch today she was telling me about traditional wedding customs which seem similar to American weddings (big parties) except the outfits and long ceremony are different.

It's been fun to work with Vi as well as to know that my 'voluntourism' isn't hindering it actually helping employ people in this struggling country.

A Typical Day

Over the last week and a half in Da Lat, I've settled in to a good routine. I'm up around 6 thanks to the neighborhood rooster and the never ending tennis matches going on outside my window. It's a nice guesthouse but not very sound proof! I then either run about 20-30 minutes (ive got a Bolder Boulder to train for!) or attempt some yoga in my room before getting ready for work. On my walk to the Clinic, I stop by the corner shop for yogurt and a banana from the fruit lady. In the afternoon, she sells fried bananas and sweet potatoes which are always tempting! I arrive at 8 and we are most busy in the morning before 1130 when Vi and I head to the food shop down the street. This is pretty much a women's home where she serves us rice, veggies, soup and two main dishes that fill both of us for a whopping $1.25 each. I then read or relax until returning to work at 1:30 til around 4 when Vi and I walk down to the center of town, around a 30 minute walk, and get dinner, chat by the chicken church (theres a chicken on the windvane on top the church) or in the park or just walk around. I've been reading a lot at night and just finished the 1,000+ page Atlas Shrugged which is an interesting book to read while in a socialist country.

Observations so far:
1. I could really get used to these work hours.
2. The Vietnamese like babies and like having a lot of them. They're everywhere. Slightly disconcerting as articles I've read show concern for a burgeoning population that may not be able to support itself.
3. Spending a lot of time with my Vietnamese sidekick Vi has been awesome as I definitely lead more of a 'local' life than a traveler here thanks to her. We actually joke that I am a local since I end up giving directions to lost tourists looking for the Crazy House (the infamous hotel that's just down the street from me... Will post it later). I've noticed the price difference between restaurants by me and the ones on the tourist street which is about a $2 more a meal (that's a lot around here!).
4. Da Lat is a beautiful town that I'm sure has sadly lost some of its allure since it reigned as the main French resort town but still has some charm in between the roar of mopeds and slight haze of pollution on the horizon.

More observations on this fascinating country to come!

Clinic Life is... interesting.

I've worked a full week at the Pasteur Institute in Da Lat now and have come across some interesting (and frustrating) cultural and personality differences that have made this an eye-opening experience.

First, the history. Dr Pasteur is a very famous scientist responsible for rabies and tetanus vaccines as well as the process of pasteurization (which the milk industry is happy about!). The Pasteur Insitute started in France in order to advance the sciences of vaccinations and now the network of Pasteur Institutes function in over thirty countries and there are four clinics in Vietnam alone. The Pasteur Clinic in Da Lat started in the mid 1970's and has been providing vaccinations, basic health care, dental services and ultrasound care ever since then. The Clinic is headed by Dr Thuy who was trained at Da Lat's medical school and is very nice.

During my time in the lab and vaccination room, I feel I can make these pros and cons about this facility.

PRO:
Provide relatively comprehensive vaccination services which we all know prevents many serious illnesses like measles, mumps, rubella, hepatitis, meningitis, etc. I was most pleased to see Gardasil and Cervivax given to young women as well. Further, with large numbers of stray dogs, we've handled a dog bite case almost daily that has included vaccination and giving the 'serum' for post exposure if warranted.

CON:
Chung. He is the pompous, rude and incredibly frustrating 'doctor' (aka med tech) who I've had the annoyance of working with the past week. I've spoke some about this with Vi and she says that most volunteers have a hard time working with him and I see why as he is just a jerk. I've adapted to their incorrect ways of doing things (like giving SQ injections as a 45 degree angle in the same deltoid spot as where you'd put an IM and they said no one does it in Vietnam in the back of the arm like I tried to show them) but he acts like I have to give an injection the exact way he does otherwise he just huffs and puffs and probably complains about me in Vietnamese. And if I stick someone and don't get immediate blood, he rudely pushes me aside. I explained to Vi that this is no environment for people to learn in (most volunteers are students that come during univeristy breaks) and she says that this is why he is not at a univeristy teaching (duh!). She said that maybe its a cultural difference and I said no, it's not as I understand there is a language barrier but he is rude to patients and staff a like it appears and especially to me. He finally asked Vi my name again yesterday after me working with him and trying to greet him every morning for over a week. So I've given up and will ignore him for the next two days I work with him and then thankfully will be moving to work in the exam rooms and other areas.

This experience hasn't dissuaded my intention of working towards improving international health but I have realized the added goals of working with a good team on a project I am really interested in and with less or no language barriers.

Here are some pics of the clinic and some action shots:

Jungle boogie time!

Today Vi and I trekked with Phat Tire Ventures, a local outdoors company, on their popular Jungle Boogie route. We started with a pick up at 8 am then a short drive to the neighboring highlands. I was eager to see more of the beautiful countryside encircling Dalat so was very excited for today's hike. Plus it keeps with my Sunday hiking streak as last Sunday we trekked in Hong Kong! The walk started through farm land and past the ethnic minority groups homeland and then rose sharply into the jungle. The jungle was actually much cooler than expected which is nice when it was about 90 degrees and relatively humid in the sun. We went up and up and finally made it to the top in time for lunch. Thein served us sandwiches but I was gaga over the fresh fruit! Mangos, dragon fruit, pineapple... Heavenly! We then trekked down the other side and eventually out of the uncle before arriving at a beautiful lake for a short boat ride back to our awaiting vehicle. Overall, it was about 14 km and an excellent bush whacking jungle experience!

First week in Vietnam!

I've enjoyed my eye-opening, fascinating and slightly intimidating first week in Vietnam immensely! Ho Chi Mihn City (formally Saigon) is an exhilarating city full of mopeds, history and yummy street food. I met my in country coordinators from ELI and had a fun dinner with them before a day tour of with Vi, my sidekick (aka translator) for the next few weeks. We explored the Reunification Palace, the historic churches and post office and enjoyed a yummy lunch (which cost me a whopping $3). I went on my own to the depressing War Remnants Museum which mainly just showcased the atrocities the US inflicted upon Vietnam during the War in the 60s and 70s. I think I would've been on a different 'side' if I lived then. I think being a hippie in the 70s would've been fun! Anyhow, we left late that night to take a surprisingly comfortable (full bed) overnight bus ($9.50) to Dalat. We arrived to a sunny cool morning at 1500 meters and settled in to my home away from home for the next few weeks. Vi and I met with the doctor at the clinic where I'll work but didn't spend much time there (she said I'd have plenty of time later) and then explored Dalat. It's a beautiful green, hilly city set on a lake. On my first day, I was up early (darn tennis court and roosters outside) and showed up early (it's been about three months since I've worked so guess I was a little nervous!). Vi and I are working mainly with a male 'doctor' named Gam. Within the first hour I was drawing labs, vaccinating and catching on to the hustle and bustle of a public health clinic in a relatively rural community. I'm trying to be really flexible because, understandably so, things are done pretty different here. And Gam has his ways of doing things and is very good at what he does (whereas it's been a few years since I've stuck this many people... Good thing fat arms isn't a problem here!). But the people are pretty cool with a random white girl poking and prodding them and the kids barely even cry when ya stick them which is good since I don't like crying kids. But they are adorable!

Saturday was a half day so we paddled on the lake, ate yummy street food (roasted sweet potatoes, fried bananas, fresh mango and ice cream... Good thing we walk a lot!) and signed up for tomorrows highlands hike. Should be fun!