Hard to be crabby in Krabi!

We arrived with the scenic ferry from Phi Phi in time to grab a guesthouse and boat over to Railey Beach for a veggie pad Thai lunch.

This beach is amazing! Surrounded by karsts and palm trees, we lounged, swam, talked with a few other travelers and then watched the most amazing sunset yet!

On our long tail boat back to Ao Nang, the sky was just on fire with reds and purples and a blazing orange sun dipping in to the ocean. I was pretty happy with that one!

I wish we had more time in Krabi but alas, we wanted to ensure an early arrival on Sunday to The Sanctuary so we had to hop across the mainland to Ko Samui on Saturday (after throwing my back out at a private yoga session with a jerk instructor... its like I'm getting old or something!). I will be back to Krabi!

Phi Phi- more than just 'The Beach'

Arriving via ferry to the staggering karsts surrounding Phi Phi Don's pier was an impressive sight! After finding lodging, we cooled off in one of the two beaches created by the opposing bays and signed up for a boat trip. Of course, the Indian restaurant was playing The Beach so we watched some of it. I had just finished the book and the book is so much better than the butchered, lusty and violent movie. But the beach scenes are amazing and I got excited when I realized, that's this place!

The next morning, we trekked up to the viewpoint (and met an awesome British couple who paid our way since we didn't bring up money) and were treated to amazing views of the two bays and lush green cliffs beyond. Amazing!

Then it was boat time! Our Thai Captain was dead set on partying and blasting rap music (with many expletives) which was fine except I felt bad for the Chinese family and hope their lil boy didn't understand the words! We kayaked to monkey beach, snorkeled with thousands of fish and lounged atop the boat.

Then we were en route to Maya Beach (aka 'The Beach').

Here we had to walk in some due to low tides but were delighted to find an amazing enclave in which you can't help but imagine how amazing it would have been to have the island all to yourself, ala The Beach.

Alas, we shared it with many other boat trips but it was beautiful. After a BBQ dinner (I have been avoiding meat so was very wary!), we watched the sun set and awaited the darkness to swim with the shimmering plankton! It's just the coolest sensation to wiggle and kick in the water and have it light up around you! Foot massages and new pedicures were a perfect ending to a great day.

International health

Our last day in Phnom Penh was rather uneventful. We ate at the historic Foreign Correspondents Club which housed many reporters over the last many turbulent decades and attempted to get in to the royal palace by covering our tank tops with scarves (it's worked at temples in the past and we were on to a yoga class after) but the lady emphatically turned us away. Would've been nice but I'm also a little templed out. But finally got a picture of 5 on a moped!

Then the flight to Bangkok then Phuket. I started feeling a little jittery and then tingly while boarding the plane which quickly deteriorated to chattering teeth, hot forehead and delirious thoughts that I must have malaria since I missed a few pills while in Cambodia. And stupid budget Air Asia didn't even have a blanket. At Bangkok, I put on more layers, took some Tylenol and tried to hydrate and rest. I was pretty much limping due to the leg pains and couldn't think cuz of the headache. We finally arrived at midnight, six hours later to our resort where I was up all night and so decided the next morning 'when in doubt, check it out' and called the local clinic who said I would need to go to the hospital so E flagged me a taxi to Bangkok Hospital Phuket. This clean hospital was really easy to get checked in to and I saw a doctor at the Outpatient Department about five minutes later. They let me rest in a dark room while waiting on labs and were pretty keen on me staying overnight even before we had drawn the labs but after seeing my low K and high white count (and negative malaria and dengue thankfully), I was ok to get fluids and IV antibiotics and go from there. So upstairs we went to a room where I had an excellent view of the sunny day I was missing, tons of English channels and room service even! I hadn't eaten much so attempted some tomato soup and felt surprisingly better a few hours later (IV fluids do wonders!). So after National Treasure finished, I checked out, paid my bill (yup American prices it seemed!), got my meds and taxid home before E could get too worried about me. Not the preferred way to kill 9 hours my first day in the islands but some poolside recovery and a beach sunset the next day sure helped!

Paradise Found

I had almost written off Cambodia. Until Koh Rong Island. For a $20 round trip boat ride (2 1/2 hours) and a $20 a night bungalow, we found a heavenly beach paradise of small bungalows, beachfront dining and NO HAWKERS! The kids greeting us at the pier didn't even beg or try to sell stuff.

We started the boat ride with a bartender Mickey from another bungalow (only four on this beach) who went to the island for just one night six months ago. Got a job and never left. She is also a part time actress in Canada which we looked up and is true. Kinda random!

For you Pops, looks like a nice fishing spot eh?

But she raved about it and rightfully so. The stretch of beach was white, clean (not perfect but better than mainland's trashy beaches) and quiet. This is probably what parts of Thailand were like back in the 70's before overdevelopment.
The most developed section:

We explored, took a cooling dip and then showered for wood fire pizza at Treehouse Bungalows. Here, you can stay in a small treehouse with amazing ocean views.

Afterwards, we stopped for drinks at Monkey Bar, another easy-going bungalow bar and met some fun travellers, played drinking games with our ladyboy bartender and cooled off for an amazing nighttime swim.

But this wasn't like any other nighttime swim. Every time I kicked or paddled or made any movement, I illuminated hundreds of small, sparkling green phosphorescent plankton and basically felt like you were a cooler version of the Green Lantern. It was by far one of the coolest things I've ever done. Over an hour later (it was seriously that entertaining), we hit up the late night bar before heading to our bungalow.
Pretty nice!

The next day we ventured back to the picturesque northern tip of the beach and spent many hours lounging, swimming, reading, napping and doing all those things you dream about when you have a bad day of work (yes I can still remember those even if it has been over six months since I've worked!).

A bulls gotta bathe too!

I had to tear my approaching crispy body away to catch the return ferry at 4, sad to leave. The only downfall were the minuscule sand flies who periodically stung your skin, otherwise, I'm realizing we experienced a small plot of paradise which won't last for long. Mickey stated that they already have plans for a runway, road and monster resorts which will undoubtedly charge much more than $20/night. Such is the problem of searching for paradise... everyone else is too. The sun setting over the back of the ferry was a beautiful ending to a wonderful beach getaway.

The Beaches of Cambodia

Sihanoukville is the premier beach town of Cambodia's southern coasts. And after surviving 95+ F (with humidity) days, we were happy for water! After checking in, we walked across the street to Occheutrel Beach which is lined with ramshackle restaurants. Just like the temples, we were hounded quite frequently if we would want fruit, bracelets, lobster, pedicure, massage... pretty much anything you want (and don't want)!

Although we did get conned in to some bracelets from some younger girls, it was nice to talk with them. My girl goes to school til 11 in the am and when asked if she had a boyfriend, she said no as she must study first! Yeah! So I bought a bracelet and told her to stay in school.

The only disappointing part of these beaches, and the country in general, is the amount of trash EVERYWHERE! Side of streets, on the beach, in the water... It's a sign of a culture how they treat their environment and on this regard, Cambodia is incredibly disappointing. I'm sure if there was a financial incentive to clean up, maybe they would!

On our first day, we did a three island boat tour which including snorkeling and lunch and swimming on Bamboo Island. It was a relaxing day!

Though our group was obnoxiously entertaining. A Russian father and son in speedos, a Japanese lady taking a million self portraits and two odd local couples. One girls arrived in high heels and had her boyfriend carry her everywhere. Another was cute but wore matching shirts which is obnoxious though very typical in Asia. And her hat says 'SkinWhite' and we have seen lots of skin whitening products for locals! Odd since all us whities are here to get tan!

Khmer Rouge: Cambodia's dark past

Many people have no idea that over a fourth of Cambodias population of 8 million people were killed, tortured or starved to death during Pol Pot's deadly regime, the Khmer Rouge, between 1975 and 1979 until Vietnam finally started fighting with them. Please google this for more info but it's incredibly tragic and sadly still manifested in the poor population struggling to gain the ground they lost when Pol Pot tried to 'start over' at Year Zero. Even more disgusting? The US and UN recognized them as a legitimate leadership since they were anti-Vietnamese. Disregard the millions who died at their hands however. It's so weird and sad. The museum in the capital of Phnom Penh details this tragic story in the old prison grounds in which thousands of prisoners came through before being sent to die in the killing fields. 7 survived.

To try to give back, we ate at Friends, a restaurant which teaches former street kids skills to work in the hospitality industry. Good food too!

Love this pic of the first lady tuktuk driver we encountered and her kid:

Temple Day Three

Today we explored the lesser known but just as impressive Roulus temples and ruins. I especially liked Bakong Temple where a modern day monastery exists today.

The temples are amazing but there is a frustrating side to it too. There are sooo many kids and even adults outside of the temples begging, singing or trying to sell you 'something lady, you want something?' We were polite or tried to talk to the kids when we weren't being completely bombarded but it wears you down! And it's hard to he annoyed at them when really it's the whole poor society that has the larger problem (which many NGOs are working on as I've seen).

Then it was poolside to help combat the 95+ degree heat. Except that I didn't realize just how photosensitive my skin would be on doxy and managed to get a bumpy heat rash after only 15 minutes in the sun. Since it's Erika's last day of active duty (and thus a paycheck), we celebrated with a wonderful Italian dinner complete with wine and chocolate mousse. We finally wore the new dresses we had tailored specifically for us in Hoi An as well. Cheers to your service and the next step in the journey of life!