Temples and Prisons in Hanoi

The day after my birthday was not an early start but after some pho ga (best hangover remedy!), we were ready to tackle the infamous Hanoi Hilton museum. It's really called the Hoa La Prison and has been used since the French reigned terror on Vietnam as far back as the 1800s. There's even a French guillotine on display. The other smaller section focuses on the American POWs, mainly Air Force pilots who spent time there from the mid 1960s til everyone was released in 1973. It was interesting to see John McCains uniform and other objects and photos from their time at what they sarcastically nicknamed Hanoi Hilton but even more impressive was the blatant propaganda at work here.

There were videos, pictures and 'real stories' that indicate prison life was a great way to play volleyball all day, eat good food and learn about this benevolent culture who were taking such great care of their American 'guests'. Its war and so many regrettable atrocities were committed by all parties but this was so intensely fabricated that it was quite disturbing. I guess no one likes to air the horrific behavior of their past. Are Americans any better at owing up to past grievances in hopes of preventing future atrocities?

On the day of our flight to Laos, we did some trip planning (Phuket here we come!) and did a whirlwind tour of the Temple of Literature which was a beautiful respite in the hectic city. It interestingly documented the education system from the 1000s to now and had these pillars called the doctors stelea where those who passed the intensive Royal Exams were commemorated. The Temple is one of the most famous in Vietnam and even is represented on the 100,000 dong note (about $5).

We also visited Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum which just boggles my mind. It was closed so we couldn't see his embalmed corpse (which is fine, I skipped Mao in Beijing too, not interested in this aspect of these countries traditions) but this monolithic structure, with it's imposing gray concrete pillars, is just embarrassing. 'Uncle Ho', as the Vietnamese fondly call him, helped Vietnam gain its independence from France in 1945 and is a revered subject in Vietnam. He graces every dong bill even. But in his will, he expressed his desire to be cremated and spread in the north, central and south of Vietnam as he didn't even want a coffin as it'd take up too much space. So instead he got this hideously huge building and has been under a display case for over 40 years. Respecting a dead guys wishes?!

Here are a few more interesting pics that summarize the local culture. You can see that the sidewalks turn in to parking lots, shops, restaurants, bike washes, hang out areas, etc so it's nearly impossible to walk on them and are thus forced on to the roads where you now contend with cars, motobikes and bikes. It's an adventure walking anywhere!

I've thoroughly enjoyed my five weeks in Vietnam and its a little hard to say 'sihn jau' to this amazing country. Even when I'm being critical, it's just because I'm so happy to be in a radically different part of the world exploring and learning and weaving these discoveries in to my current ideologies.

Now off to Laos! And back to hot sunny weather!

Smile!