Monks and bikes in LP

On our third day, we awoke at 5:30 AM to ensure we arrived on the main street in time to see the daily tradition of the alms giving. As there are over 1,000 monks at the dozens of historic temples or 'wats' scattered in and around Luang Prabang, the feat of feeding them all becomes a large event which locals and of course travelers love. We were instructed not to purchase sticky rice or bananas to give to them as really it's meant to be an act of Buddhists supporting their local monks by providing their daily allotment of food and not just a tourist attraction. But it was very impressive to witness the hundreds of quiet monks, similarly clad in orange gowns and shaved heads, of all ages, possibly 10 to 60, walking with their food bucket and accepting donations from the kneeling women or standing men. The offerings typically consisted of sticky rice, banana leaf wrapped something (probably sticky rice), bananas and cookies. Not a very diverse diet eh?

I was most impressed that not only were the monks receiving but they were also giving to the dusty boys and older women who were essentially begging as they sat in the same line with a basket in front of them for the monks to toss in some of their recently accepted food. Very humble!

We then trekked up and over Mount Phousi, the mountain (large hill really) in town to reach the small Wat which offered an early morning view overlooking the entire town, hillside and Mekong and Nam Khan rivers.

All this really gets ya in a zen mood so what better to do next than riverside yoga at our favorite Utopia garden? The instructors were Canadians traveling who had recently done a retreat on Koh Phangan as well and so got us really excited for our yoga and detox retreat in April. During our breakfast, a suprisingly healthy dog joined us and loved cozying up to Erika. It was nice after seeing so many thin, haggard (or cooked) dogs that just wander the streets.

After prying ourselves off the comfy pillows post-breakfast, we decided we couldn't leave this amazing town yet so opted for another night even though we are having trouble reaching the Gibbon Experience folks farther north so really unsure of whats next. But when you're this calm and happy, who cares?

To continue the good day, we rented bikes and did a wat to wat, fruit juice (no electricity for fruit shakes) to fruit juice bike tour of town. Wonderful!

Stop along the Mekong to dip our toes:

The highlights were being told we were beautiful by a monk (not sure if that's exactly what he said or if he is even able to say that but that's our story), wadding our feet into the mighty Mekong, feeling hundreds of years of history unravel around us in the carefully preserved temples which thankfully are all UNESCO protected and stretching out our sore muscles (hiking, elephant riding, biking, stair climbing and yoga!) along the beautiful streets.

Banging the gong at Wat Xieng Thong, one of the oldest as its been there since the early 1500's

We returned to our guesthouse to change for spauna time (rough life, I know) to discover our key missing. I felt that maybe I locked it in the room or had left it in the door so we had to break in. I was worried for our stuff for a bit but it was ok. Turns out the people in 999 took our room key of 666 so all was well. Then we headed to Lemongrass spa where for $8 we enjoyed a wonderful smelling steam bath and hour long oil massage. Again I had a man and I don't think I'm going back to women masseuses! Now if that doesn't cap off a zen day, I don't know what does! Oh wait, probably an all you can eat vegetarian buffet for 10,000 kip ($1.25) at the night market and some amazing shopping.

The night market is huge with hundreds of vendors who set up and tear down their little shop every night on the main street, right under the main Wat.

I love shopping here compared to Vietnam. In Vietnam, you are hounded from the second you even look at an item until you've hurried far far away to avoid the stress. Here, most women are almost too busy feeding their babies or painting their toenails to hound you which makes for a very relaxing opportunity to browse their beautiful handicrafts. Which also means I want to buy more and as relaxed and frugal as I've been, I went a little crazy. A new cloth shopping bag, large blue painting with a gold tree an accompanying pair of paintings of monks, new tank top, new silver earrings. Top it off with a glass of wine at the local wine bar and a Lao whiskey concoction called Boom Boom Berry at a beautifully decorated garden bar and I do believe that completes one amazing day in the life of this vagabonding traveller.

Smile!