Paradise Found

I had almost written off Cambodia. Until Koh Rong Island. For a $20 round trip boat ride (2 1/2 hours) and a $20 a night bungalow, we found a heavenly beach paradise of small bungalows, beachfront dining and NO HAWKERS! The kids greeting us at the pier didn't even beg or try to sell stuff.

We started the boat ride with a bartender Mickey from another bungalow (only four on this beach) who went to the island for just one night six months ago. Got a job and never left. She is also a part time actress in Canada which we looked up and is true. Kinda random!

For you Pops, looks like a nice fishing spot eh?

But she raved about it and rightfully so. The stretch of beach was white, clean (not perfect but better than mainland's trashy beaches) and quiet. This is probably what parts of Thailand were like back in the 70's before overdevelopment.
The most developed section:

We explored, took a cooling dip and then showered for wood fire pizza at Treehouse Bungalows. Here, you can stay in a small treehouse with amazing ocean views.

Afterwards, we stopped for drinks at Monkey Bar, another easy-going bungalow bar and met some fun travellers, played drinking games with our ladyboy bartender and cooled off for an amazing nighttime swim.

But this wasn't like any other nighttime swim. Every time I kicked or paddled or made any movement, I illuminated hundreds of small, sparkling green phosphorescent plankton and basically felt like you were a cooler version of the Green Lantern. It was by far one of the coolest things I've ever done. Over an hour later (it was seriously that entertaining), we hit up the late night bar before heading to our bungalow.
Pretty nice!

The next day we ventured back to the picturesque northern tip of the beach and spent many hours lounging, swimming, reading, napping and doing all those things you dream about when you have a bad day of work (yes I can still remember those even if it has been over six months since I've worked!).

A bulls gotta bathe too!

I had to tear my approaching crispy body away to catch the return ferry at 4, sad to leave. The only downfall were the minuscule sand flies who periodically stung your skin, otherwise, I'm realizing we experienced a small plot of paradise which won't last for long. Mickey stated that they already have plans for a runway, road and monster resorts which will undoubtedly charge much more than $20/night. Such is the problem of searching for paradise... everyone else is too. The sun setting over the back of the ferry was a beautiful ending to a wonderful beach getaway.

The Beaches of Cambodia

Sihanoukville is the premier beach town of Cambodia's southern coasts. And after surviving 95+ F (with humidity) days, we were happy for water! After checking in, we walked across the street to Occheutrel Beach which is lined with ramshackle restaurants. Just like the temples, we were hounded quite frequently if we would want fruit, bracelets, lobster, pedicure, massage... pretty much anything you want (and don't want)!

Although we did get conned in to some bracelets from some younger girls, it was nice to talk with them. My girl goes to school til 11 in the am and when asked if she had a boyfriend, she said no as she must study first! Yeah! So I bought a bracelet and told her to stay in school.

The only disappointing part of these beaches, and the country in general, is the amount of trash EVERYWHERE! Side of streets, on the beach, in the water... It's a sign of a culture how they treat their environment and on this regard, Cambodia is incredibly disappointing. I'm sure if there was a financial incentive to clean up, maybe they would!

On our first day, we did a three island boat tour which including snorkeling and lunch and swimming on Bamboo Island. It was a relaxing day!

Though our group was obnoxiously entertaining. A Russian father and son in speedos, a Japanese lady taking a million self portraits and two odd local couples. One girls arrived in high heels and had her boyfriend carry her everywhere. Another was cute but wore matching shirts which is obnoxious though very typical in Asia. And her hat says 'SkinWhite' and we have seen lots of skin whitening products for locals! Odd since all us whities are here to get tan!

Khmer Rouge: Cambodia's dark past

Many people have no idea that over a fourth of Cambodias population of 8 million people were killed, tortured or starved to death during Pol Pot's deadly regime, the Khmer Rouge, between 1975 and 1979 until Vietnam finally started fighting with them. Please google this for more info but it's incredibly tragic and sadly still manifested in the poor population struggling to gain the ground they lost when Pol Pot tried to 'start over' at Year Zero. Even more disgusting? The US and UN recognized them as a legitimate leadership since they were anti-Vietnamese. Disregard the millions who died at their hands however. It's so weird and sad. The museum in the capital of Phnom Penh details this tragic story in the old prison grounds in which thousands of prisoners came through before being sent to die in the killing fields. 7 survived.

To try to give back, we ate at Friends, a restaurant which teaches former street kids skills to work in the hospitality industry. Good food too!

Love this pic of the first lady tuktuk driver we encountered and her kid:

Temple Day Three

Today we explored the lesser known but just as impressive Roulus temples and ruins. I especially liked Bakong Temple where a modern day monastery exists today.

The temples are amazing but there is a frustrating side to it too. There are sooo many kids and even adults outside of the temples begging, singing or trying to sell you 'something lady, you want something?' We were polite or tried to talk to the kids when we weren't being completely bombarded but it wears you down! And it's hard to he annoyed at them when really it's the whole poor society that has the larger problem (which many NGOs are working on as I've seen).

Then it was poolside to help combat the 95+ degree heat. Except that I didn't realize just how photosensitive my skin would be on doxy and managed to get a bumpy heat rash after only 15 minutes in the sun. Since it's Erika's last day of active duty (and thus a paycheck), we celebrated with a wonderful Italian dinner complete with wine and chocolate mousse. We finally wore the new dresses we had tailored specifically for us in Hoi An as well. Cheers to your service and the next step in the journey of life!

Temple Day Two

We tuktuk'd out to a retreat centre outside of town for yoga and breakfast and finally met another Coloradoan! She was teaching yoga at the retreat for a month during her 7 months of traveling. Anyhow, it was nice to see outside of the tourist bubble of downtown Siem Reap and I already sense the poverty here. Much more so than most parts of Thailand of course and even Laos though possibly comparable to rural parts of Vietnam.
Typical home (stilted for rainy season):

We've noticed a trend that most busses and tuktuks like to fill up gas after picking you up. Here's the fancy gas station:

Next we supported a local business that employs blind people as masseuses. I realize, especially in these communities, there is almost no work for blind people as they can't drive, cook, etc but there sense of touch is certainly needed for massage therapy! And a one hour four hands (2 people) massage for $10? Not bad! Even with the children running around the room. The other interesting thing about Cambodia is that, atleast in this area so far, the main currency is US dollars. You can pull it out of an ATM, it's printed on the menus (and no riels, the local currency) and even the kids hounding you at the temples with postcards want 'one dolla, just one dolla'. I wonder the financial implications but that's beyond me. Convenient? Yes. Weird? Yes.

Then it was back to the temples. In a sudden and surprising downpour. So we were washed out of a few temples but still able to explore many lesser known temples. The clouds blocked a sunset view over Angkor Wat but it was still impressive!

More kid salespeople:

Our drivers friend let us hold his kid and actually even offered to let E take him home. I guess they all think we're Angelina!

PS- its more like Vietnam here with tons of random stuff on mopeds!
Like pigs!

And?!

Angkor What?!

After arriving by a relatively uneventful flight from Chiang Mai, we were greeted at our Siem Reap hotel with lots of humidity, a welcome drink and massage! Loving Cambodia already (well except my feet were serious chow for something our first night and are now super itchy!). On our first day, we were up at 4:30 AM to brave the crowds for the sunrise over Angkor Wat. It was beautiful!

One of the many beautiful bad reliefs inside Angkor Wat

Though it was already hot and humid by 8 am (and only getting worse), we explored the extensive temple grounds before tuk-tuking to Angkor Thom which was home to a huge palace.

The entire Angkor complex first came to fruition in the 900's and continued til the 1500's and at times it's population swelled towards a million people when London was just 50,000. Crazy! Then we explored the impressive though crumbling Bayon temple, a few other smaller ones and the finally arrived at the infamous Ta Prohm (aka the Jungle Temple). Most people know this from the movie Tomb Raider (that's also when Angelina Jolie filmed here and adopted her first kid, a Cambodia orphan who she named Maddox). This one was awesome!

When first discovered by the Europeans, all the temples were in some disarray and overgrown but they cleaned the others up and thankfully left this one to be natural. However, the growing trees are moving and basically damaging the temples but it's a very cool, almost otherworldly, site to behold.

So many kids trying to sell you stuff!

A few more and we were whisked to our A/C hotel thankfully where we chilled and watched The Killing Fields. Filmed in 1984, so therefore not long after Pol Pot's genocide regime called the Khmer Rouge which decimated the population with its agrarian socialism ideas, the movie is harrowing and graphic. But as all tragedies, we must learn history to avoid repeating it. Lastly was the night market and dinner and drinks with a cool Brit bartender we met that morning at sunrise. More temples tomorrow!

Smile!